Bocas del Toro
Where did 18 countries film their Survivor series? The answer is the exotic Bocas del Toro Archipelago in the Caribbean of West Panama.
Bocas is one of Panama's top tourist attractions. Here you can relax on beautiful beaches with scarcely a soul in sight and hike across rainforests so fine Lonely Planet Guide calls them "a biologists fantasy". and explore a fun, laidback seaside town.
Bocas del Toro is an archipelago with swirling aqua blue waters, palm lined beaches set against nature-dense rainforests and a fun, laid back town. Most hotels are located in Bocas town on Colon Island. The town is low key, friendly and has a surprising selection restaurants and nightlife spots. Many of the locals speak English.
Bocas is perfect for both couples seeking a luxurious romantic getaway and families who want to have quality fun and experience nature at its prime.
Boat tours to the nearby islands for beaching, snorkeling, diving, dolphin observation, rainforest sights and indigenous tribes are quite popular.
Like the rest of Panama, Bocas is blessed by nature: no hurricanes ever touch these shores, unlike some of its less fortunate Central American neighbors. Add to that relatively low prices, pristine beauty, a location in Central America's most sophisticated country, and you will understand why some people are talking about the "Bocas Boom." Bocas is not only a top tourism destination but also a popular place for second homes and retirement.
Christopher Columbus was the first causasian to anchor in this archipielago in 1502. He found the calm waters and rich natural surroundings the perfect place to repair his boat.
At the turn of the century, the town of Bocas del Toro was the first headquarters of the United Fruit Company. With more than 25,000 inhabitants, it had six consuls and five newspapers. A banana blight in the 1920's put an end to this chapter in its history, but historical buildings and a stately park still speak of its former exuberance.
Hotels start from $15 a night for the back-packer crowd, with middle range hotels in the $30 -$80 range. Upscale options include Playa Tortuga on a private beach just 10 minutes from downtown Bocas, Punta Caracol with cabins over the sea , Tranquilo Bay and Al Natural.
How To Get There
You can get to the town of Bocas, on Colon Island by air with daily flights from Panama City as well as flights from San Jose, Costa Rica. You can also come by bus and take a ferry from the mainland. Aeroperlas and Air Panama have several daily flights from Panama City to Bocas. Round trip tickets from Panama City are around $165.00.
By land you can take a bus or car to Almirante on the mainland and take a launch ('taxi 25') or ferry to Bocas town on the main island. In Almirante there's a safe place to leave your vehicle for the duration of your stay in Bocas. You won't need a car in Bocas.
Bocas town is small and you can get most places by walking. Bocas taxis are inexpensive-they will take you anywhere around town for between 50 cents to a dollar. For island excursions you can arrange for a taxi to take you to a beach and come back for you at a later hour. If you are going to one of the other islands, water taxis are plentiful and cheap. Bikes are also available for rent. If you are walking around late at night, stay on the main streets.
Where To Stay
Bocas has a hotel for every budget. There are lively hostels for back packers, eco-lodges for nature enthusiasts, and gorgeous little hotels for families or couples. Most people stay in Bocas town on the main island. Several hotels have sea views but there are no beaches in town. Playa Tortuga Resort , just outside town does have a private beach.
The nearby islands of Bastimientos and Carinero have attractive cabins and upscale eco-lodges like Punta Caracol, Al Natural and Tranquilo Bay offering extraordinary close-to-nature experiences. For more info including hotel websites, see our hotel list on the sidebar.
What To Do
Take a Bocas Highlights Tour
The best way to get to know Bocas is to take a Bocas one-day boat tour. Boats can take you to Dolphin Bay to observe dolphins cavorting, gorgeous beaches like Red Frog or Zapatillas Keys, mangroves teeming with different species, lunch at Coral Cay in the middle of the ocean and some nearby snorkeling spots. Any and all of these activities make for for a truly memorable stay.
Red Frog Beach
If you want to sunbathe on sparking sand and get wet in aquamarine waters, the best place to go is Red Frog Beach. Just take the Red Frog Express- a water taxi from Bocas town to Red Frog Beach on Bastimientos Island. Red Frog is one of the most beautiful beaches in Panama and almosy anywhere else. For lunch or dinner there is an onsite attractive bar and restaurant.
On the short walk across the island to the beach, you see and hear the tiny famous red frogs that live exclusively on this island.
Diving and Snorkeling
The best places for diving are Coral Key, Dark Wood Reef, Hospital Point and Punta Juan Buoy. For snorkeling, we especially recommend Coral Key- with a variety of brightly colored corals and tropical fish. A water taxi can take you directly or you can go as part of an island tour.
When diving in Bocas will be able to observe some of the best preserved hard and soft coral in the world. You will also may see sting rays, lobsters, several species of crabs and a countless variety of tropical reef fish.
Rent a Bike
This is inexpensive and fun. Bocas is the perfect place to run around by bicycle. You can bike around town and the adjacent neighborhoods and even go to Bluff Beach which quite close. You will find several companies renting the bikes on main street.
Finca Los Monos
This is privately funded tropical botanical garden about 10 minutes from downtown where you can take a two hour tour and observe a wide variety of flowering trees and plants. There is a $10 entrance fee.
Get certified: Bocas Water Sports offers PADI scuba courses from Discover Scuba, open water including certification in Advanced, Rescue, First Aid or Dive Master courses that cost a lot less than similar courses in the United States.
Smithsonian Tropical Lab Tour
The Smithsonian Institute of Tropical Reseach has a seaside laboratory and offers tours of its ongoing scientific projects and various nature exhibits including one where you can see some of the local frogs. This is a great activity when it is pouring rain.
River Tours/ Indian Village Tour
For something different, take a river trip that includes a visit to an authentic Ngobe Bugle Indian village. This indian tribe still leads a lifestyle that has changed little since the time when Columbus discovered Bocas. You'll see stunning jungle scenery and wildlife (you may even get a glimpse of a manatee- a large aquatic animals also known as a "sea cow").
Rainforests
With miles of mangroves and jungles lining the coast it is easy have a close and personal experience with nature in Bocas. The exotic Bird Island has birds specific to this island. We recommend you take a tour with a tour operator to fully enjoy the exotic scenery.
Nightlife
Bocas is a low-key and friendly town where it is easy to meet with fellow travelers and local people. In some places in town, every night is a party.
Buena Vista Deli & Bar,located right on the water, is known for its relaxed ambience and good food. For the younger crowd, Mondo Taitu is an ideal place to meet an international mix of young travelers and surfers, and offers a diverse menu of specialty island cocktails (think mojito with a twist), served by young, hip and friendly bartenders. Also fun is the newer La Iguana, right on the water. Don't forget to visit the famous Barco Hundido, also known as the "wreck-deck," which is a good place to get your dance moves on. Like anywhere, it is advisable to practice discretion and stay on the lighted main streets at night.
Souvenir Shopping
Souvenir shops can be found on Bocas' main street and hippies from all over the world can be found lining the main-street with their crafts and beautiful jewelry. Also, on the opposite end of the main street just before the end, there is a display of molas attended by the Kuna Indians.
Panama is famous for its "molas" which are colorful reverse-applique cloth designs. This humble stand has the one of best selection of "molas" in the whole country. You have the added satisfaction of purchasing directly from the local Indians and knowing your dollar will go a long way toward helping these worthy people.
Restaurants
Bocas' restaurants are easy on the budget and come in a surprising variety. For seafood we recommend El Pecado. El Refugio is best for reasonably priced dishes for more sophisticated palates.
Across the street from El Pecado, La Laguna Hotel offers mostly Italian dishes including a scrumptous pizza, and has street-side seating making it the best eatery in town to get a glimpse of local life. The Bahia Hotel also has a good Italian restaurant with some of the best pasta in town.
For excellent 'gringo' food, we highly recommend Buena Vista. Kum Ja is the only Chinese restaurant and the food is inexpensive and tasty. Another popular restaurant is Om which offers East Indian food. If you are just looking for a beach-picnic style lunch, stop by the Super Gourmet Deli for epicurean sandwiches.
Breakfast and lunch on islands outside of Bocas: For seafood in incomparable surroundings, take a water taxi to restaurant Coral Cay, which is perched on stilts over the sea. You can pick a live lobster from a sea cage and enjoy gorgeous sea-views all around as you wait for your dish to be prepared. This is a Bocas must-do. Most tours will take you there as part of their route.
Bocas Butterfly Farm
On Colon Island just a few minutes by water taxi ($2), pass through thick mangroves to get to an island garden with a large mesh tent where you spot hundreds colorful butterflies and witness all stages of their life cycle from tiny egg to curious caterpillar and jewel like pupa.
Special Treats
Like cinnamon rolls? The German Bakery by the central park offers these and other freshly backed goods. The Gourmet Shop, at the end of main street by the sea, also has a wide selection of delicious pastries.
Learn Spanish
The best way to learn a language is to be in a place where the language is spoken. Take advantage of your Bocas stay by taking a Spanish course at Spanish By The Sea, an excellent place to learn Spanish.